Our Eternal City of Rome, Gaeta, Vatican, Nemi and Tivoli Italy Visit: Day 2

On our second day in Rome we went on a day trip to the stunning coastline Riviera di Ulisse, with its coastal gems – the beach towns: Gaeta, Sperlonga and Terracina.

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We got up early in order to get ready, eager to reach the Tyrreanian seashore. So, we headed to Termini train station to catch the train to Gaeta.

We bought our train tickets to Gaeta online on Trenitalia website, 2 weeks before departure. We chose the 8 am train. The train Roma Termini – Formia Gaeta can cost between 8.40 and 18 euros per person. We paid 8.40 euros for each ticket. Termini train station is huge, so we struggled a little to find the platform from where our train departed. The trip took 1 hour and 30 minutes.

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One of the train stops was in Monte San Biagio and we could admire it from the train window. It is a nice town located on the slope of a hill.

After Monte San Biagio the next stations were Fondi – Sperlonga, Itri and then finally Formia – Gaeta, where we got off.

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Arriving in Formia – Gateway to Gaeta

Formia is a nice beach town, located halfway between Rome and Naples. Out of Formia Train Station, we turned right, towards west on Piazza IV Novembre which further ahead changed its name in Via XXIV Maggio. Then, at the 2nd intersection we went left on Via Rialto Ferrovia and continued forward until we arrived in a square – Piazza Guglielmo Marconi. This is a central square, where the city hall is located. In the piazza we could also admire the Parrocchia Santa Teresa d’Avila.

Because we didn’t have enough time to grab something to eat in Rome, we got some refreshments and pastries from Recco Gastronomia, a deli store located in the square near the church.

Then we hurried to find the bus stop in the port, as we knew that Cotral buses to Gaeta depart every 30 minutes and we wanted to catch the 9 am bus.

As we climbed down the stairs near the church, we got to an intersection with a wide street, we crossed it and then we continued across a piazza and got to another street, Via Portguese; we also crossed this street and then walked across the parking lot. Then we headed towards a roundabout and we could already see the seashore and also the port – Porto Vespuci di Formia. We finally found the bus stop on the right, Porto p.le Vespucci bus stop and we bought tickets at 1.50 euro each.

We boarded the bus to Gaeta – Piazza della Libertà. The bus was very crowded but we didn’t want to waste any more time, so we got on the bus. However, the good thing was that the ride took only 10 minutes.

Gaeta – Exploring the Historic Center

Finally, around 10 am we were in Gaeta; we got off at Piazza della Liberta. From there to the Santuario della Santissima Annunziata in the Gaeta historic city center was a 13-minutes walk.

From Piazza della Liberta we turned right to walk along the seashore. Then, at the roundabout we turned right on Via Lungomare Giovanni Caboto and kept forward, along the seashore and also parallel to the Medieval city walls.

First, we stopped at Il Fornaio De Conca bakery to buy some tiella with octopus and olives, a specialty dish of the region of Gaeta, and then we continued a little further on Via Lungomare Giovanni Caboto.

Then we took the second street on the right. Just after passing a church on the right, Chiesa di San Biagio, we finally turned right on Via Annunziata.

Discovering the Santuario della Santissima Annunziata & the Golden Chapel in Gaeta

So we got to the entrance to Cappella dell’Immacolata Concezione (Cappella d’Oro); just after passing underneath an arch, the first door on the left. But, in order to visit the Capela, we had to enter through the next building, the Santuario della Santissima Annunziata, with its beautiful façade. So, the entrance was from the piazza in front of the church, parallel to the waterfront. We finally entered the sanctuary. It was free; both the interior and the façade were beautiful.

But the main attraction was the astonishing Cappella d’Oro, which we visited next. The entrance was also free, but they accepted small donations – we paid 2 euros per person. It is said that there was born the Concept of the Inmaculate Conception of the Holy Virgin Mary.

Walking Along the Seaside Promenade of Gaeta

Afterwards, out of the church we continued along the water front, Lungomare Giovanni Caboto.

Along the way we found a piazza on the right and Christian Bar in the front. Luckily, from this piazza we could take pictures of the iconic Tempio di San Francesco d’Assisi and also of the Annunziata Church tower in the background.

Next we enjoyed the nice walk along the seashore, the classic promenade of Gaeta Medievale; the Italians call it passeggiata panoramica lungomare.

We then continued ahead on Lungomare Giovanni Caboto and we arrived at Piazzale Caboto where was a large parking lot. From there we could also capture some pictures of the Aragonese Castle, which is not open for visitors.

Moreover, we could admire a beautiful sailing ship moored there.

Porto di Gaeta and Duomo di Gaeta

We then continued on the waterfront and finally got to Porto di Gaeta. We noticed the colorful old town buildings of Gaeta across the street from the port, on the right side of the street called Via Docibile, so we took pictures.

And eventually, a little ahead and on the right, we found the iconic Campanile Duomo di Gaeta (Torre Medievale), one of the symbols of Gaeta.

We continued forward and, after passing by a bar called Lupo di Mare Guinness, then we turned right and found Porta Domnica, an historical landmark.

Then after Porta Domnica we turned right on Via Domo. 

So we got closer to Campanile Cattedrale Duomo di Gaeta (Torre Medievale). Also, next to it was the Cathedral Basilica of Gaeta, so we surrounded the building, and then got by the entrance to the Cathedral.

We then turned right on Via Duomo and further ahead we reached Piazza Cardinale de Vio.

Admiring the Tempio di San Francesco d’Assisi and Panoramic Views of Gaeta

Then we continued further on Via Duomo and reached Palazzo della Gran Guardia in Piazza Generale Traniello. We got some refreshments from Ottimo Market grocery store we found on the left side of the piazza. We bought some bottles of cold water for the walk to Montagna Spaccata, because there would be no other shops on the way.

We then arrived at a a park and turned left on Via B. Nardone and then turned right on Via Nardone, and continued forward on Via Angioina. So we finally arrived at the beautiful Tempio di San Francesco d’Assisi, with its imposing statue of Saint Francis.

The church was closed when we got there, but we were happy we could admire from the outside its imposing Gothic façade and, honestly we went there especially for the amazing views.

The terrace in front of the church offers breathtaking views of the splendid Gulf of Gaeta, on clear days you can admire even the islands of Capri and Ischia, and also the Vesuvius.

As you can see, the pictures speak for themselves. Certainly the views of Gaeta from up there are amazing. The views from Tempio di San Francesco d’Assisi, with the statue of Saint Francis are a must in Gaeta; in my opinion is actually the main touristic attraction.

The National Park Riviera di Ulisee

Then, from the Tempio di San Francesco d’Assisi to the Santuario de la Montagna Spaccata it’s a 20-minutes walk (1.4 km).

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So, from the Tempio di San Francesco d’Assisi we went right on Via Angioina, the road that starts just at the right of the church as facing it, at the bottom of the stairs. It is a narrow road, sometimes there are cars passing. On the right side we could see the sea from above the roofs of the old houses.

At the intersection we turned left on Via della Breccia. Also at the next one we kept left on Via della Breccia, surrounding the National Park Riviera di Ulisee. Parco Regionale Riviera di Ulisee is a protected coastal area with forest and mountain hike trails, offering views over the Gulf of Gaeta. Moreover, there are ruins from Roman ancient times. We went with the road and then kept forward (left) on Via Santissima Trinita. From here the road becomes wider and more cars pass.

We stopped in a panoramic point on the right side. From there we could see Serapo beach, the main beach of Gaeta and also one of the most beautiful on the Latium coast. It extends from the slopes of Monte Orlando to the ruins of the Roman villa of Gneo Fonteo. Gaeta has always been a very popular holiday resort: it was frequented by emperors, wealthy patricians, also consuls and senators. Moreover, Serapo beach has received the “Blue Flag”, and also the “Green Flag”.

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The Sanctuary of Montagna Spaccata – Gaeta’s Spiritual and Natural Wonder

We then continued forward on Via Santissima Trinita and finally arrived at the Santuario della Montagna Spaccata. The entry was free.

As we entered the gate we saw the main building in the middle and went left to visit Grotta del Turco.

You can only go down 60 steps, there is a rail and a view.

Grotta del Turco

Grotta del Turco is a natural cave that descends directly into the Tyrrhenian Sea through 275 steps.

Afterwards, back in the front of the main building of the sanctuary, we went to the right. There was a Via Crucis that led to the sixteenth century Chapel of San Filippo Neri, a corridor decorated with the 14 stations of the Via Crucis painted on majolica.

The route then continues among the rocks of the Montagna Spaccata through a staircase that eventually reaches the “hand of the Turkish”, an imprint in the rock made by an unbeliever.

Then we could also see the bed of St. Philip Neri and also the Chapel of S. Filippo Neri.

Montagna Spaccata

At the end of the Via Crucis is a stairway of 35 steps which leads to the deepest fissure in the mountain, that was split, according to legend, at the moment of the Crucifixion of Jesus. The earthquake that struck Jerusalem at that moment, also split the mountain here. There is also a terrace from where you can admire the “Montagna Spaccata”.

We also visited the Chapel of the Crucifix.

And then we returned on the Via Crucis corridor.

Below I summarized what can be visited within the Sanctuary of Montagna Spaccata:

• The Sanctuary of the Most Holy Trinity, built in 930;
• “Grotta del Turco”, a spectacle of nature;
• Missionary Exhibition;
• Stages of the Via Crucis, painted on a majolica of 1849;
• Chapel of St. Filippo Neri;
• Impression on the rock of the hand of a “Turkish sailor“;
• “The Bed” of S. Filippo Neri carved from the rock;
• Chapel of the Crucifix;
• Terrace from where you can admire the “Montagna Spaccata”.

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Heading to Piazza della Libertà

From the Santuario de la Montagna Spaccata back to Piazza della Liberta was another 20-minutes walk (1.4 km). So we went on Via Santissima Trinita and at the intersection kept left, forward on Via Munanzio Planco. We kept going with the road and then at the big intersection we turned right on Via Firenze. We then continued forward at the next small intersection and, at the next one, we turned left on Via Piave, before arriving at the park. At the third intersection we turned right on Via Luigi Cadorna. Then we turned left and finally arrived in Piazza della Liberta.

We boarded the Cotral bus from Gaeta – Piazza della Libertà (via Giuseppe Mazzini) to Sperlonga – Piazza Europa – 1.5 euro a ticket. In around 20 minutes we got to Sperlonga.

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Sperlonga – The Whitewashed Jewel Near Gaeta

In Sperlonga the bus stopped on Via Municipio near Piazza Europa. We crossed the street, climbed the stairs to go behind the city hall building and then we arrived in the piazza. There we could see the city hall, a modern looking church and also some restaurants.

Then we crossed the piazza to enjoy the panoramic view from the Belvedere Sperlonga point.

This view of the Riviera di Ulisse is a must in Sperlonga, overlooking the beaches below and also the nearby Villa of Tiberius.

Exploring Sperlonga Old Town from the Piazzetta

We then turned right on Corso S. Leone and got to the Piazzetta, in the historic center of Sperlonga, full of shops and restaurants, such as Cocktail Bar, Bar Tiberio, Bar Trani.

From the piazzetta we wandered on the narrow white streets of the centro storico.

We also came across some bars and restaurants with a few tables set outside on the tiny alleys.

We eventually could admire some frescoes on a wall that told some story of the town.

We didn’t get lost, we returned to the Piazzetta and headed to the right on Via Tiberio and then we turned right on Via Ripa.

And we wandered again on some tiny white alleys of the Sperlonga old town, and also descended some stairs. It was nice to catch glimpses of the blue sea through the archways.

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Sperlonga Port, Torre Truglia and the Panoramic Views

As descending, we got to Via Ripa, climbed down some stairs and the street got wider; there was a park with benches where we could rest and also admire the sea and the Sperlonga Port.

We went down with the road which afterwards changed its name in Via Torre Truglia. It was a winding path with stairs that finally led us to Torre Truglia.

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From down there we could have a closer look at the port and a panoramic view of the historic village of Sperlonga, made of white houses overlooking the sea from a rocky hill.

There are lots of stairs, but the views makes it the worth the effort. Torre Truglia was part of a coastal observation and defense structure.

A bridge connects the tower to the village. We descended the stairs to the left and so we got to Via del Porto.

Truglia Tower is the symbol of Sperlonga, placed on a rock that separates the two bays and dominates them both.

Along the way, Via del Porto changes its name in Via della Saponera.

Piazza Fontana and Fontana Beach

The promontory offers magnificent views along the coast on both sides of Sperlonga.

We then continued on Via della Saponera, from where we could admire Sperlonga colorful beach, and then turned left and got to Piazza Fontana.

Piazza Fontana is directly on the beach; there is the Fontana Beach, also called Spiaggia della Sorgente. This is one of the busiest beaches in the area, thanks to its proximity to the center of Sperlonga.

Next to Fontana Beach there are a series of private beaches with well-equipped lidos.

Piazza Fontana is a small square in Sperlonga, located on the beautiful, sunny promenade of the town, just a few meters away from the beach. Though the streets of Sperlonga old town are very charming, my favorite place in Sperlonga is Piazza Fontana. Maybe it is because it makes me think of a relaxed weekend at the beach. I would love to return here for a couple of days and enjoy the beach and the promenade.

The piazza is characterized by a large white arch through which the beach is visible.

In the western corner of the square, there was a marble fountain in the shape of an ancient ship, followed by the beautiful Hotel Aurora.

Before leaving Sperlonga, we searched for a place to have lunch.

We left Piazza Fontana and turned left on Via Cristoforo Colombo and we had some pizzas at Ristorante Pizzeria Tropical, while sitting on the terrace and taking in the sea views. The pizza was very good, Neapolitan style. The service was fast even if the place was really crowded. So we were very happy with that because we were in a hurry to catch the bus to Terracina. Also the prices were good, even given the central location.

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We went to the bus station which was in fact just across the street from Piazza Fontana, as the locals advised us. So we didn’t have to hurry back to Piazza Europa. The tickets were 1.5 euros per person and it was a half an hour ride to Terracina.

“Riviera di Ulisse” tour from Sperlonga to Gaeta

Instead of joining the crowds on land, explore one of Italy’s most dramatic coastlines by boat on this tour between Gaeta and Sperlonga, along the Riviera di Ulisse. Cruise past the ruins of Emperor Tiberius’s seafront villa, swim inside a natural grotto, and see the Montagna Spaccata—a cliff face that plunges more than 260 feet (80 meters) into the sea. Snorkeling stops let you explore a protected marine reserve.

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Terracina

We finally got off the bus in Piazza XXV Aprile, Terracina. We went to the right on Via Roma towards the seashore, passed through Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, a beautiful piazza dominated by the Church of the Holy Savior and also surrounded by shopping stores, restaurants and bars.

From there we then continued on Via Roma and got to a roundabout with the historic Fontana di Piazza della Repubblica in the middle of it.

We then stopped a little in Piazza della Repubblica and wandered around.

The area is also full of shops, bars and restaurants.

As we continued forward, Via Roma became Via Camilo Benso Conte di Cavour.

We got to a big intersection, with Lungomare Matteotti. From there we could see Pisco Montano and also Tempio di Giove Anxur.

And just across the street there was the beach of Terracina, very large and colorful.

Terracina Beach

We crossed the wide stretch of Spiaggia di Levante and then went to the left where the beach became very narrow.

We eventually decided to spend some time at the beach and gave up on visiting the old city center of Terracina. As we didn’t carry towels with us, and only bathing suits, we found a place where we could lay down on some rocks, in front of Ristorante Porto Salvo. In fact we were staying just below the rocky Pisco Montano.

The sea was very calm that afternoon.

There were many people enjoying a relaxing day at the beach in the middle of August.

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We had no time left to visit the historic center of Terracina, so we got back to the bus station on Via Roma in Piazza XXV Aprile.

Then we boarded the Cotral bus to Staz. FS Monte S. Biagio – 1.5 euros per person – a 15-minutes ride.

Then we took the train from Staz. FS Monte S. BIagio Terracina Mare to Roma Termini. The price was 7 euros per person and in approximately 1.20 h we got to Termini.

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Dinner Back in Rome

Then finally back in Rome, as we were tired, we decided to cancel our dinner reservation for 9 pm at Ristorante Pizzeria Il Cuore di Napoli where we had a 20% discount on The Fork app. Instead, we looked for a place for dinner within the Termini station.

We chose to eat at Ciao Ristorante. It was more like a fast food, but with many dishes cooked on the spot. They served typical regional dishes. They were also offering two set menus. So we chose the Trastevere menu. The pasta was very good and also the price was very reasonable. Also, another advantage was that we could eat fast, as we were starving.

Find the Best Area to Stay in Rome

Choosing the right area can make your visit to Rome much easier. The city is large, and your accommodation location can affect how much time you spend travelling between attractions.

Staying near Roma Termini can be convenient if you plan to use trains, buses or the metro, especially if you are arriving by train or planning day trips outside the city.

Alternatively, explore accommodation in the historic centre, near the Vatican, around Trastevere or in other neighbourhoods that suit your itinerary and budget.

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Discover the Colosseum and Ancient Rome

The Colosseum is one of Rome’s most iconic landmarks and a fascinating place to begin exploring the city’s ancient past. Nearby, the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill reveal the remains of the political, religious and social heart of ancient Rome.

Allow enough time to explore the archaeological area. A guided tour can help bring the ruins to life and explain the history behind the monuments.

Booking tickets in advance can be helpful, particularly during busy travel periods. Check official ticket conditions, entry times and inclusions before booking.

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Visit Vatican City and St Peter’s Basilica

Vatican City is one of the most remarkable places to visit during a stay in Rome. St Peter’s Basilica, St Peter’s Square and the Vatican Museums offer an extraordinary combination of architecture, art and history.

If you want to see the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museums, plan your visit carefully and check ticket availability ahead of time. A guided tour may help you understand the artworks and the history of the collections.

Remember to check current visitor rules and dress requirements before visiting religious sites.

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Explore Rome on a Walking Tour

Walking is one of the best ways to experience Rome. Explore historic squares, impressive fountains, picturesque streets and beautiful churches while discovering the stories behind the city’s most famous landmarks.

Depending on your interests, choose a general introduction to Rome, an ancient history tour, a food walk or an evening tour through the historic centre.

A guided walk can be particularly useful if you have limited time and want to understand more about the places you see.

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Take a Day Trip to Tivoli

Tivoli is a rewarding day trip from Rome, known for its historic villas, gardens and beautiful surroundings. It offers a change of pace from the busy streets of the capital.

Villa d’Este is famous for its gardens and fountains, while Hadrian’s Villa offers a fascinating look at the extensive ancient residence built for Emperor Hadrian.

Check opening times, ticket requirements and transport options before setting out. Depending on your plans, you may want to focus on one villa or make a longer day of your visit.

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Discover Nemi and the Castelli Romani

For a different perspective on Lazio, consider visiting Nemi, a small town overlooking Lake Nemi in the Castelli Romani area. Its scenic setting makes it a lovely place to slow down and enjoy a break from the city.

The area is also known for its local food traditions and strawberries. You can combine a visit to Nemi with other towns in the Castelli Romani, depending on the time available.

Check public transport connections or consider a guided excursion if you prefer not to organise the journey yourself.

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VisitGaeta and the Riviera di Ulisse

Gaeta combines a historic old town, coastal scenery and Mediterranean atmosphere. It can be a lovely addition to a wider Lazio itinerary if you want to experience more than the main attractions of Rome.

Explore the historic centre, enjoy the sea views and leave time to discover the area’s beaches and local cuisine. The best plan will depend on the season and your transport arrangements.

If you are travelling from Rome, check journey times and connections in advance. A day trip may be possible, but an overnight stay can give you more time to explore at a relaxed pace.

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Plan Transport Around Rome and Lazio

Rome has public transport connections including metro lines, buses and trams. For many central attractions, walking is also a practical way to get around, although distances can add up.

If you plan to visit places such as Tivoli, Nemi or Gaeta, check the relevant train and bus connections before travelling. Some destinations may require transfers or additional local transport.

For airport transfers, day trips or journeys with several stops, compare the available options and allow extra time for connections.

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Find Restaurants in Rome

Rome is a wonderful city for discovering Italian food, from traditional Roman pasta dishes to neighbourhood trattorias, pizzerias and restaurants serving seasonal specialities.

Use TheFork to explore restaurants, compare reviews and check available reservation times. Booking ahead can be useful for popular restaurants, particularly during busy periods.

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Plan Your Rome and Lazio Adventure

Want to organise your visit more easily? Use our Rome and Lazio travel guide to help plan your sightseeing days, choose places to visit and make the most of your time in the region.

Explore Rome’s historic landmarks and discover destinations beyond the capital, including Tivoli, Nemi and Gaeta.

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Read On

Make sure to check out Our Eternal City of Rome, Gaeta, Vatican, Nemi & Tivoli Italy visit: Day 3 to continue exploring — from hidden corners to grand vistas, there’s much more to discover. You can find all our posts about Rome on this page. Also, for more inspiration and practical tips on visiting Italy, grab our maps and travel guides and head over to our Italy Travel Hub and Italy Bucket List — your starting point for all things Italian! If you’re looking to expand your itinerary, don’t miss our posts on Naples, and also our day trips to the Amalfi Coast, Capri and Pompeii.

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Related:

• Italy Travel — All Our Posts and Guides for Italy
• Maps and Travel Guides
• Destination Italy: The Eternal City of Rome, Gaeta, Vatican, Nemi and Tivoli – Day 2
• Destination Italy: The Eternal City of Rome, Gaeta, Vatican, Nemi and Tivoli – Day 1
• Destination Italy: The Eternal City of Rome, Gaeta, Vatican, Nemi and Tivoli – Day 6

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