Our Eternal City of Rome, Gaeta, Vatican, Nemi and Tivoli Italy Visit: Day 4

We wanted to experience a trip to the Castelli Romani area, so we chose to do a day trip to the charming town of Nemi, famous in Italy for its lake and its strawberries. And then, back in Rome we explored the charming narrow streets of Trastevere. Discover our Rome itinerary below!

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Exploring the Castelli Romani Area – A Day Trip to Nemi, Italy

Because our time in Rome was limited, we had to choose only one village in the Castelli Romani area. Among our favorites was also Castel Gandolfo, but there was no way we would give up Nemi, and visiting both locations wasn’t possible at that moment. So, the winner was Nemi.

We woke up early in the morning in order to do a half-day trip to the charming little town of Nemi. So first we grabbed something to eat from Conad city supermarket on our way to Termini. Then we took the metro line A to Anagnina and in 23 minutes we got there to catch the Cotral bus to Genzano di Roma.

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Journey from Rome to Nemi, Italy. Stopover in Genzano di Roma

In order to get to Nemi we had to change buses in Genzano di Roma. We got off in Genzano di Roma, bus stop Via Dalla Chiesa. But from there we had to walk for a few minutes, crossing Genzano di Roma, a nice town of the Castelli Romani group. Then, from the bus station we got back to a roundabout and turned right on Viale Fratelli Rosselli. We continued forward and finally got to the bus stop in Piazza Frasconi Tomasso, in the center of the town. We rested on a bench while waiting for the bus and admired the area.

Castelli Romani & Nemi tours

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Arriving in Nemi, Italy – Roseto di Nemi

We got on the bus that took us to Nemi, one of the most beautiful villages of the Castelli Romani. We arrived in Piazza Roma in 10 minutes.

From the bus station we first got back down the road a little in order to see Roseto di Nemi. After the parking lot we got to the convent of Santuario del Santissimo Crocifisso and could see the roses garden over the fence.

Heading back towards Piazza Roma, we also took pictures from a belvedere point.

Exploring Piazza Roma and Corso Vittorio Emanuele

Then, in Piazza Roma, after the Cupid Statue – Monumento a Nemi we turned to the left. We noticed on the right the Bar dei Pini Bernasconi Rossella, selling Castelli Romani local products, especially meats.

Then we walked ahead on Corso Vittorio Emanuele. There is a fountain on the left, just before Byron Bar.

We also noticed a nice shop selling strawberries and forest fruits, given that Nemi is famous all over the world for its strawberries, which are small and very good.

Then we continued ahead on Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

Nemi is a beautiful Castelli Romani village with views, eateries and also shops everywhere.

The Heart of Nemi, Italy – Views and Castelli Romani Charm

Afterwards we stopped at Bar Delle Fragole Di Iorio Emiliano to enjoy de views from its nice terrace. Impressive Palazzo Ruspoli could be seen in the back, completed by the enchanting landscape of Lake Nemi; it was postcard perfect.

Palazzo Ruspoli and the Belvedere degli Innamorati in Nemi, Italy

Before the palace, we found the most iconic place in Nemi, the Terrazza panoramica sul Lago di Nemi (Nemi Lake), therefore we stopped there for photos. I particularly liked the mother statue placed there – Statue of La Grande Madre (“The Great Mother”). It was a tribute to the female divinities, as well as to the cult of the Virgin.

From the beautiful terrace we could enjoy a magnificent view of the countryside with their strawberry greenhouses and Lake Nemi.

Every year in May, Nemi holds a Strawberry Festival.

Before Ruspoli Palace, we turned left on Via Plebiscito. At the end of the street there is Bar Sirena del Lago and a Belvedere point – Belvedere degli innamorati.

Palazzo Ruspoli is a historic building in the center of Nemi. It is built around a cylindrical tower and is surrounded by a hanging garden.

We went back at the intersection where the Ruspoli Palace was, and turned left on Via Giulia. We admired Fantasie Mediterranee Di Borgognoni Laura – a shop with traditional products and souvenirs. Besides its strawberries, Nemi is well known also for its flowers.

A little further, on the left, we found the Fountain of the Gorgon. And we got to Terrazza degli Innamorati scenic spot.

The terrace offers wonderful views of the volcanic lake. On the edges of the lake grow forest fruits. Nemi takes its name from the mythological loves of the lake valley, in particular those between Diana and Virbio and between Numa Pompilius and the Nymph Egeria.

Lake Nemi and the Path of Lovers

Nemi Lake is a volcanic one. There were found the two ships of Emperor Caligula, and also the village still preserves its ancient traditions.

From the Terrazza degli Innamorati we walked to the edge of the lake and found a beautiful park with a fountain and also an observation deck on Lake Nemi. The park can be reached with a nice walk along the so-called “path of lovers”.

The panoramic point is surrounded by greenery.

This garden can also be reached from the Belvedere bar, near Palazzo Ruspoli.

In fact, Bar Belvedere has a nice terrace in this garden on the shore of lake Nemi. They have seating only outside, but are only open in the summer months.

These are actually the old gardens of Ruspoli Palace, overlooking the lake. The statues, the fountain and also the easy structures blend well with the vegetation.

Finally, we exited the park through the same archway we entered, near the Fountain of the Gorgon we got to admire. Moreover, we refilled our bottle with some cold fresh water.

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Local Delicacies and Traditional Foods of Nemi, Italy

Then back in Via Giulia, we went again towards Ruspoli Palace.

As we got in Piazza Umberto I, we turned left on Salita Garibaldi in order to reach Le Scalette Restaurant.

It is a nice location for this typical family-run restaurant, offering traditional dishes. However, we didn’t have enough time to stay there for lunch or for a snack.

So, from Le Scalette we went back a little and turned left on Via Municipio and then got to Piazza Municipio. We reached the church of Nemi, Parrocchia di Santa Maria del Pozzo.

Also, near the church is the town hall of Nemi.

From Piazza Municipio we then went to the right on Via Salita della Chiesa, and finally got back to Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

Back in Corso Vittorio Emanuele we headed towards Piazza Roma.

Of course, we couldn’t leave Nemi without trying its typical products. So we stopped at Fruteria di Bottachiari’s stand on the left, just as getting from Piazza Municipio to Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

And we bought some forest fruits, including their famous wild strawberries. Very tasty!

Porchetta Sandwiches and Farewell to Nemi, Italy

While in a village of the Catelli Romani, it was mandatory to try their sandwiches with porchetta, especially as we liked porchetta very much when we tried it for the first time in Rome by the Fontana di Trevi.

Therefore, we entered a delicatessen grocery store located just at the beginning of Piazza Roma, Norcineria Castelli Nemi. It looked like a paradise of cured meats. The interior and the small decorative details looked very nice and rustic. The porchetta sandwiches were very good, and the price reasonable – 5 euros.

Then back in Piazza Roma we took a photo of the Cupid fountain.

Nemi is a small but fabulous village, in the sense that it looks like a fairytale country.

We sat on a bench in a square / park on the right and enjoyed our sandwiches. A skinny kitty begged for food, so we bought another porchetta just for her. But she thanked us with a scratch on the hand. Maybe within the fairytale village of Nemi there still exist some wicked witch’s cats.

The return itinerary to Rome Termini was mostly the same. We got on the bus that took us to Genzano di Roma, Piazza Frasconi Tomasso. In 10 minutes we were there. This is the main square in Genzano, located at the base of the climb to the Town Hall and the Cathedral. In the middle of the street lies a beautiful fountain built at the end of the 18th century.

Then from Piazza Frasconi Tomasso we boarded a Cotral bus that took us directly to Anagnina. We took the metro line A to and got to Termini.

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Rome Hop-on Hop-off Bus

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Afternoon in Rome

For the second half of our 4th day in Rome we had planned a walking itinerary through the famous Trastevere neighborhood.

From Termini, Piazza dei Cinquecento we took bus 170 in the direction Agricoltura. We finally got off at the 9th stop, Bocca della Verità, just by the Tempio di Portuno.

From the bus stop we continued forward and passed by the Fountain of the Tritons and the Forum Boarium, former Roman livestock market and also the site of the first gladiators fights. Across the street we saw a long line in front of the Santa Maria in Cosmedin church where the Bocca della Verità (Mouth of Truth) sculpture is located.

Then, back in Rome we were late for our lunch reservation at Il Vascellari restaurant in Trastevere, just across the Tiber River nearby. So, we decided to skip the visit to Bocca della Verità, which was initially included in our itinerary.

Trastevere Food & Walking Tours

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Rome: Lunch and Basilica Santa Cecilia in Trastevere

We went towards north west at Largo Americo Petrucci and crossed Ponte Palatino over the Tiber and so we entered Rome Trastevere neighborhood. Then, after Ponte Palatino we turned left along the river on Lungotevere Ripa and then turned right in front of a gas station on Via dei Vascellari. We finally reached a piazza and there was Il Vascellari, restaurant. We had a 25% discount on The Fork app. After the porchetta sandwiches we had in Nemi we were not hungry, so we had espresso and some salads – Insalata Mista. I never tasted a better salad, the ingredients were very tasty, the lettuce, the tomatoes were exceptional, and also all the other ingredients were very good. And, moreover, the prices were very reasonable.

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Afterwards, we continued ahead on Via dei Vascellari until we got to another piazza, Piazza di Santa Cecilia, were was the Basilica Santa Cecilia in Trastevere.

The Basilica has a nice courtyard and also a fountain upon entering the compound.

It is a beautiful cloistered convent in Rome, in a quiet part of Trastevere, on the site of the place where Saint Cecilia was martyred. St. Cecilia is considered the patron saint of music. Also, the church houses Cavallini’s masterpiece fresco. The crypt has byzantine mosaics. The chapel is in baroque style with a byzantine bell tower and also the statue of St. Cecilia is breathtaking.

Highlights of Trastevere, Rome

Then from Santa Cecilia in Trastevere we returned to Via Santa Cecilia and at the first intersection turned left on Via dei Genovesi. We then continued forward on Via dei Genovesi until arriving at an intersection with a large road. We crossed the road and went to the right and we finally reached Largo di S. Giovanni de Matha with a church on the left. To the left began the iconic Via della Lungaretta. We noticed Antica Osteria Rugantino on the left at the beginning of the street, nicely decorated.

We began our stroll on Via della Lungaretta, a typical Trastevere street, full of restaurants and bars, and also full of people.

Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere, Rome

We kept ahead on this street and we eventually arrived in Piazza di Santa Maria with the Fontana di Santa Maria in Trastevere in front of the church.

We visited Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere. I particularly liked the façade with the terrace, statues and golden mosaic frescos.

The interior has gorgeous colorful Byzantine mosaics and lots of gold. According to the legend, the church was built on the site where a fountain of oil had sprung up miraculously on the day that Christ was born.

After visiting the basilica, we eventually left the piazza to wander on the charming narrow streets of Trastevere.

The Charming Streets of Trastevere

From the middle of Piazza di Santa Maria, we walked on the street in front, Via della Fonte d’Olio. At the intersection we kept ahead (right) on Vicolo del Piede and at the next intersection turned right on Via della Pelliccia and finally arrived at Antico Caffè del Moro with its interesting façade.

Returning on Via della Pelliccia we walked until the intersection with Vicolo del Cinque. Then we found the famous BAR del Cinque on the right, but it was closed. Many local businesses close in August for their annual vacation.

From BAR del Cinque we then turned south at Piazza di S. Egidio and continued ahead until the intersection with Via della Paglia.

Trastevere literally means “across the Tiber”. It is like a maze of narrow, cobbled alleys. Once it was the neighborhood of the working-class, now there are modern clubs, restaurants, and shops.

We passed by a shop that restored musical instruments and there was a man sitting on the steps at the entrance feeding a cat sitting on a chair next to him. We thought it was funny and took a picture. Then we red the sign and let them some money.

Moreover, in Piazza di Sant’Egidio we found this interesting statue.

Terraza del Janiculum (Belvedere del Gianicolo)

From Piazza di Sant’Egidio we turned right on Via della Paglia. We kept ahead and then turned right on Vicolo della Frusta. We got to a park and climbed some stairs to arrive in Via Garibaldi.

At the first intersection we went left on Via di Porta di S. Pancrazio and continued up on that street, until we finally got to another intersection where we saw Fontana dell’Acqua Paola.

We then headed north on the street in the middle – Passeggiata del Janiculum and eventually we reached the Terraza del Janiculum (Belvedere del Gianicolo).

This hilltop terrace offers panoramic views of the city. It is just a short steep climb from Trastevere, 15 minutes.

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Evening Walk – From Trastevere to Piazza Farnese

From the Janiculum terrace we then went to the bus station P.le G. Garibaldi, right next to the viewpoint, towards north. We took bus 115 and got off after 7 stops, at Lgt Sangallo/Perosi bus stop.

From the bus stop, which was just near a parking called Via Giulia Parking, we went south along the Tiber, passed by the bridge Ponte Giuseppe Mazzini and, after the second intersection on the left, we saw some orange buildings on the left; the first ones had an orange concrete fence and then the fence ended and we found an archway with stairs, just between two orange buildings. We went down the stairs on this archway called Vicolo del Polverone. We turned left on Via Giulia, arrived at an intersection where we found Fontana del Mascherone on the left.

We continued forward and turned right at the next intersection on Via dei Farnesi. We got to Piazza Farnese to see Palazzo Farnese, famous Renaissance palace built by Michelangelo, currently functioning as a French embassy.

Eventually, we exited the square by the street in the middle – Via de’ Baullari, opposed to Palazzo Farnese. We got to Campo de’ Fiori, square lined with a number of restaurants and bars.

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Piazza Navona – A Masterpiece of Fountains and Baroque Art

We kept ahead on Via de’ Baullari. At the second intersection, large one, with Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, we crossed the street, and took the narrow street in the middle, Via della Cuccagna and finally arrived in Piazza Navona.

Piazza Navona is a perfect place for a walk or a sit down, especially in the evening when is not that hot. It is also an excellent place to take pictures and discover Rome more.

In the middle of the Piazza is the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone. This is an exuberant baroque 17th-century church.

We also admired the three baroque fountains: Fontana del Moro, Fontana dei Fiumi, Fontana del Nettuno.

In the middle, in front of the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone, is Fontana dei Fiumi, also called the Four Rivers Fountain.

Piazza Navona is an elegant square dating from the 1st century A.D., full of bars and some street artists.

It is considered a main square of Rome and it is a must see of the city.

Ending the Day at the Pantheon

We exited Piazza Navona by the street opposite to the church, Corsia Agonale. Then we got to Piazza Madama and then left on Corso del Rinascimento just a little, crossed the street and then we turned right on Via del Salvatore. At the intersection we went forward on Via Giustinianini and we finally arrived in Piazza della Rotonda and saw the Pantheon, my favorite monument in Rome.

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We went to the north west corner of Piazza della Rotonda; passing by Tempio Bar, we turned left on Via del Pantheon to get the following nice picture of the Pantheon.

As we got there too late, we couldn’t visit the Pantheon inside. It is open daily between 9 am and 6.45 pm.

But, we managed to take a photo of a horse and carriage in front of the iconic temple built around 118 to 125 A.D..

On the right side of the Pantheon we found Cremeria Monteforte and bought some delicious ice cream. I had pistachio ice cream, my favorite flavor.

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Elephant and Obelisk and Via delle Paste

Afterwards, we surrounded the Pantheon to see the Basilica di Nettuno, the remains of the ancient temple of Neptune incorporated in the back of the Pantheon. We continued towards east on the narrow Via della Palombella, the one in front of Basilica di Nettuno. At the intersection we turned right on Via della Minerva and got to a square, Piazza della Minerva, where we could admire the Obelisco della Minerva (Elephant and Obelisk), very ancient looking as it was brought from Egypt by Cesar to impress Cleopatra.

Then we exited the square by the south-eastern exit, on Via Santa Caterina da Siena. At the intersection we continued ahead on Via di Piè di Marmo. Then at the next intersection with a narrow alley we found the statue called Piè di Marmo, a large marble foot, remains of an ancient Roman statue. Back on Via di Pie di Marmo, at the intersection, we turned left on Via di S. Ignazio and when the street ended we then turned right reaching Piazza di Sant’Ignazio, dominated by Sant’Ignazio di Loyola Church.

We left Piazza di Sant’Ignazio by the south-western exit and got to Via del Seminario and then at the first intersection we went right on Via delle Paste, a very nice narrow alley, full of tourists at that hour, and also full of restaurants small tables set outside in the alley.

At the end of the street we turned right on Via dei Pastini. On the right we found a nice toy store, Bartolucci Italy, with a huge Pinocchio doll exposed at the entrance.

Final Stops – Piazza di Pietra and Galleria Alberto Sordi

We then continued forward and we finally arrived in Piazza di Pietra with the Tempio di Adriano on the right.

We walked ahead on Via di Pietra and then at the end of the street we entered Venchi Cioccolato e Gelato on the left. It is a nicely decorated chocolate shop, with a stunning chocolate waterfall wall and chocolate drip.

Afterwards, we ate a variety of pizza slices from a “tavola calda” restaurant on Via del Corso. Then we headed left on Via del Corso to have a look at the shops. At the first intersection we reached Piazza Colonna and across the street we eventually found Galleria Alberto Sordi shopping mall – an elegant building designed in the early 1900s.

As exiting Galleria Alberto Sordi, we went to the right and then at the first intersection got to Largo Chigi, just in front of a Zara store. There was Largo Chigi bus stop from where we took bus no. 492 towards Tributina. We finally got off after 6 stops at Volturno/Cernaia bus stop.

Then from Volturno/Cernaia bus stop we turned back a little and at the first intersection went to the left on Via Montebello. We continued ahead until we finally arrived at Virginia Hotel.

Find the Best Area to Stay in Rome

Choosing the right area can make your visit to Rome much easier. The city is large, and your accommodation location can affect how much time you spend travelling between attractions.

Staying near Roma Termini can be convenient if you plan to use trains, buses or the metro, especially if you are arriving by train or planning day trips outside the city.

Alternatively, explore accommodation in the historic centre, near the Vatican, around Trastevere or in other neighbourhoods that suit your itinerary and budget.

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Discover the Colosseum and Ancient Rome

The Colosseum is one of Rome’s most iconic landmarks and a fascinating place to begin exploring the city’s ancient past. Nearby, the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill reveal the remains of the political, religious and social heart of ancient Rome.

Allow enough time to explore the archaeological area. A guided tour can help bring the ruins to life and explain the history behind the monuments.

Booking tickets in advance can be helpful, particularly during busy travel periods. Check official ticket conditions, entry times and inclusions before booking.

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Visit Vatican City and St Peter’s Basilica

Vatican City is one of the most remarkable places to visit during a stay in Rome. St Peter’s Basilica, St Peter’s Square and the Vatican Museums offer an extraordinary combination of architecture, art and history.

If you want to see the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museums, plan your visit carefully and check ticket availability ahead of time. A guided tour may help you understand the artworks and the history of the collections.

Remember to check current visitor rules and dress requirements before visiting religious sites.

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Explore Rome on a Walking Tour

Walking is one of the best ways to experience Rome. Explore historic squares, impressive fountains, picturesque streets and beautiful churches while discovering the stories behind the city’s most famous landmarks.

Depending on your interests, choose a general introduction to Rome, an ancient history tour, a food walk or an evening tour through the historic centre.

A guided walk can be particularly useful if you have limited time and want to understand more about the places you see.

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Take a Day Trip to Tivoli

Tivoli is a rewarding day trip from Rome, known for its historic villas, gardens and beautiful surroundings. It offers a change of pace from the busy streets of the capital.

Villa d’Este is famous for its gardens and fountains, while Hadrian’s Villa offers a fascinating look at the extensive ancient residence built for Emperor Hadrian.

Check opening times, ticket requirements and transport options before setting out. Depending on your plans, you may want to focus on one villa or make a longer day of your visit.

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Discover Nemi and the Castelli Romani

For a different perspective on Lazio, consider visiting Nemi, a small town overlooking Lake Nemi in the Castelli Romani area. Its scenic setting makes it a lovely place to slow down and enjoy a break from the city.

The area is also known for its local food traditions and strawberries. You can combine a visit to Nemi with other towns in the Castelli Romani, depending on the time available.

Check public transport connections or consider a guided excursion if you prefer not to organise the journey yourself.

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VisitGaeta and the Riviera di Ulisse

Gaeta combines a historic old town, coastal scenery and Mediterranean atmosphere. It can be a lovely addition to a wider Lazio itinerary if you want to experience more than the main attractions of Rome.

Explore the historic centre, enjoy the sea views and leave time to discover the area’s beaches and local cuisine. The best plan will depend on the season and your transport arrangements.

If you are travelling from Rome, check journey times and connections in advance. A day trip may be possible, but an overnight stay can give you more time to explore at a relaxed pace.

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Plan Transport Around Rome and Lazio

Rome has public transport connections including metro lines, buses and trams. For many central attractions, walking is also a practical way to get around, although distances can add up.

If you plan to visit places such as Tivoli, Nemi or Gaeta, check the relevant train and bus connections before travelling. Some destinations may require transfers or additional local transport.

For airport transfers, day trips or journeys with several stops, compare the available options and allow extra time for connections.

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Find Restaurants in Rome

Rome is a wonderful city for discovering Italian food, from traditional Roman pasta dishes to neighbourhood trattorias, pizzerias and restaurants serving seasonal specialities.

Use TheFork to explore restaurants, compare reviews and check available reservation times. Booking ahead can be useful for popular restaurants, particularly during busy periods.

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Plan Your Rome and Lazio Adventure

Want to organise your visit more easily? Use our Rome and Lazio travel guide to help plan your sightseeing days, choose places to visit and make the most of your time in the region.

Explore Rome’s historic landmarks and discover destinations beyond the capital, including Tivoli, Nemi and Gaeta.

Discover the Rome Travel Guide

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Read On

Make sure to check out Our Eternal City of Rome, Gaeta, Vatican, Nemi & Tivoli Italy Visit: Day 5 & 6 to continue exploring — from hidden corners to grand vistas, there’s much more to discover. You can find all our posts about Rome on this page. Moreover, for inspiration and practical tips on visiting Italy, grab our maps and travel guides and also head over to our Italy Travel Hub and Italy Bucket List — your starting point for all things Italian! And if you’re looking to expand your itinerary, don’t miss our posts on Naples, and also our day trips to the Amalfi Coast, Capri and Pompeii.

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• Italy Travel — All Our Posts and Guides for Italy
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• Destination Italy: The Eternal City of Rome, Gaeta, Vatican, Nemi and Tivoli – Day 1
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